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You Have The Right To Conform: Fashion Tribalism at RAFW

‘Excuse me, I think you’ll find that’s my seat,’ the leggy blonde said. ‘Oh I’m sorry, I was told to sit here,’ I replied, trying not to dither as she glanced at me and whispered to her friend.

She was beautiful, thin and clad in black. Impossibly high heels and an even more impossibly chic blow-dry completed the look. I was wearing my Marge Simpson beads, a vintage dress and flat shoes. I thought I looked cool, but her pitying glances suggested otherwise. To top it all off and unbeknown to me, I’d been seated right in the middle of one of the glossies’ reserved seats (by the man responsible for seating all the guests, not just of my own volition) which is the equivalent of covering yourself in bbq sauce and leaping into a pit of ravenous lions.

I felt like I was bizarrely living out an episode of ‘The Hills.’ But I wasn’t- I was seated second row at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW) on my first day and obviously had not yet worked out the near impossible hierarchy that is the seating arrangements.

Unlike its hipster sister L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival (LMFF), RAFW takes itself seriously and, in a way, with good reason. You are privy to ready-to-wear collections in an industry-only forum, meaning the general public cannot attend or buy tickets. This is invite only, darling.

I’ve always thought that fashion week was a forum where everyone, no matter what you look like, flourished in a colourful utopia. RWAF certainly served up plenty to look at in terms of street style, but this year I felt very much as though utopia had given way to a blatant tribalism of the fashion variety.

Since when was the Australian fashion scene divided down tribal lines? Did I miss the day where you sign up and pledge allegiance to your tribe via designer handbag purchase instead of paying your rent?

The fashion industry wouldn’t survive if there wasn’t mainstream adherence to trends. Trends are the cogs that keep the retail machine going. But the conformist idea that if you don’t look a certain way or use certain accessory brands as an acknowledgement of being part of some sort of fashion inner sanctum is alienating and keeps us from leading the way in global trends.

Understanding that Sydney is not Melbourne and vice versa, I was still surprised to find that so many women (and a few men) slavishly followed a uniform look that went something like this: Sky high heels (platform or otherwise), skinny pants, fur gillet or jacket, balayage do with center part, topped of with a designer hand bag.

Every day I saw scores of women wearing a variation of this, give or take a sheer maxi skirt or body con mini. It was clear that if you wanted to fit in and be the darling of the front row and street style photographers, this was your uniform.

Sheer creativity is a hallmark of the most influential people that work in the global fashion industry today. Anna della Russo, Karl Lagerfeld, Bryan Boy and even Tavi with her giant bow seen at Christian Dior last year express a mad sense of beauty through their stylish creativity. Bold and courageous, they inspire scores of fashion followers because they are brave and individual, not slavish and conformist.

Perhaps my tribe was too busy hunting down bargains at Savers or fossicking for their next DIY project in Spotlight. Someone round them up will you? I need my tribe next time round.

32 comments

  1. Fantastic article on a concern which is relevant in most parts of the world (I live in South Africa) especially when designer items are not readily available and are practically unaffordable to 90% of the countries population. Yes there a handful of girls who shimmy around gloating with a designer bag etc that Daddy bought them and unfortunately to most people it doesn’t matter how you got it (hard work or a gift) you’re only special IF you’ve got one. Thank goodness there are still those around who don’t see this as a ticket to style heaven 😉

  2. I have also experienced that same look of distain from ‘the leggy blonde’ types clad in black, conforming like sheep. I do love black, but I wouldn’t trade it for my vintage pieces picked up from Op Shops.

    I think it shows more creativity and experimentation when you put together an outfit from op shop pieces and your existing wardrobe, rather than buying a look entirely off the rack. With experimentation there is bound to be mistakes, you may buy something that would be better off in the rag bag. But when you do get it right and people keep asking where did you find that? it feels good to know that your look is unique and can’t be copied piece for piece!

  3. I somehow missed this post, but couldn’t agree with you more. I just want to add this…its SYDNEY and not RAFW. Everyone here dresses the same, as if someone has dressed everyone with a paint by numbers colour-in-book, careful you don’t want to colour outside the lines. An example, I wore a necklace by a local designer which just so happens to be a macrame owl, when I got to the fashion event (not RAFW twas a few months back) one of the PR girl clones said to me in a distasteful tone similar to that of True and Prue off Kath & Kim “ohhh you’ve worn a wall hanging” Talk about feeling like you’ve got BBQ sauce all over you. Sydney activly discourages anything but what they know, its best to be in a seriosuly ugly Alexander Wang jumper that every girl in town is wearing than something from a salvos as at least people know who youre wearing. If they don’t know who it is than it isn’t worth wearing.

    Rant over, believe me its been hard to get used to but I’m starting to love Sydney now, but never the less I can still bitch about it till the cows come home.

  4. ‘I think you’ll find that is my seat’ !???!?!??!!?! Who says that? What good is it being ‘perfect’ if you are that miserable on the inside. You live in a world above them Lady M x

  5. GREAT post Lady M and some great comments too!
    x

  6. GREAT post Lady M and some great comment too!
    x

  7. Thank you! Thank you for expressing your thoughts so articulately. I love your style, and your passion. I love that you hunt down interesting pieces from op shops and mix them with new articles – you always look amazing (from all the pics I’ve seen in your blog posts). It seems these other ‘fashionistas’ have no sense of their own style and to compensate they seem to adopt others boring trends.

  8. “…balayage do with center part, topped of with a designer hand bag.” – Oh dear god, when will this end?!?!

    As an avid reader of your blog (even though we have very different styles) I can absolutely appreciate the way you put together your outfits, and love the contrast between different (non-clone) bloggers.

    I must say, I love a sky high heel and a great skinny jean/legging however I am sick to death of seeing and dealing (retail sigh) with these clones on a daily basis. When I shop, I pick things that stick out to me personally – Fringed orange top? Love the colour, why not!? Docs with a sheer maxi skirt? Would look absolutely dreadful on me and I’m pretty sure I’ve seen the look on every 16 year old hanging outside of General Pants. Pass!

    I think the trick is to adopt trends – if you are partial to them, but stick to what you know and love, which for you is Vintage and for them is clearly anything that Alexa/Olivia/Rumi is photographed in.

    Thanks for such a thought provoking post, I’m glad I’m not the only one that feels this way! x

  9. it certainly does feel like there is a certain way you should look in sydney in order to be ‘chic’. i’m originally from victoria but now reside in sydney and i’ve definitely noticed a difference; sydney is more ‘trendy’ or trend focused whereas it seems people are more relaxed about that in melbourne. the look you described(fur gillets are eww) is spot on and does not appeal to me at all. it’s a bit depressing. that said, sadly, i’m not much off a fossicker either as i’m super impatient. i don’t think there’s a tribe of my kind to be found.

  10. Fantastic blog. I’m from Sydney (spent 22 yrs there) and have lived in Melbourne for 3yrs. You hit the nail on the head!

    Melbourne is alive with creativity – hooray for fashion and for Melbourne kids having the courage to be a little different!

    xx

  11. It’s much more fun to be a bit original or play around with a current trend or two. It makes me sad when I see people adopting a fashion uniform and blending in. I’m glad there are people out there who are happy to stand out. 🙂

  12. So everyone looks like Carine Roitfeld?

  13. Exceptionally well written post!

    Given how stylish you appear in your posts, it’s actually nice to know that sometimes you feel like the one covered in BBQ sauce. I guess everyone feels that way from time to time right?

    As for the clone-ishness of the glossies:

    Most offices and industries do have unofficial dress codes.

    For example, most computer programmers I know have *horrible* standards for dress in the office. It’s a “I don’t care that you are wearing a Cycling shirt with a pair of ratty black jeans as long as your work is good” kind of environment.

    Compare them to Lawyers & Law firms – A more conservative (Suit or suit variation) dress code prevails with a palette of muted colors.

    I think the conformity you’re seeing is an industry dress code. The show was truly a work event. If you were to run into some of these ‘clones’ on their after-hours you might see some more creativity.

    Also, let’s keep in mind that the ‘glossies’ make their money from advertisements. You’re unlikely to see them advertising vintage clothing. No-one is paying to advertise a product they don’t sell anymore! I would expect glossy-staff to wear something from one of their advertisers. Especially in a situation where they might get photographed!

    One thing about bloggers is they are free to write what they want, and wear what they want (vintage, home-made, repurposed) because they don’t have many big-name advertisements. They don’t need them. It doesn’t *cost* that much to publish a blog. You don’t have to pay for a photographer. You don’t need a large staff. You certainly aren’t paying for models either!

    Unlike ‘glossies’ whose writers have to adhere to content that is supported by advertizers and be scrutinized by editors, bloggers had a lot of freedom.

    Individuality is a wonderful thing.

    Let’s be honest though, Bloggers also have less accountability.

    A blogger is free to speak without pulling any punches. There is no obligation to research or provide proof to back-up one’s opinions. It’s not journalism. afterall.

    A blogger could have a very negative impact on a person, a company, a brand or even an idea.

    The rise of the blogger in recent years represents a change in all media – just in the fashion industry. I don’t think we truly understand the impact this will have yet.

  14. Great post Phoebe! I really enjoyed your wry observations from RAFW. Can we have more of this type of work from you? It’s really good stuff and a great read!

  15. That vapid clone could never have produced such an eloquent post as yours! More the pity on her for not having one ounce of humanity or good manners.
    Bitch.

  16. It does irk me that most of the people responsible for our nation’s seasonal taste get about in outfits that, save for heel shape and it bag, could’ve come out of their wardrobes 2 (or 5, or 10) years ago, with barely a nod to the ‘trends’ they’re shoving down our throats in their magazines…

    I’m all for wearing whatever, whenever, but I wouldn’t mind seeing a bit more practicing of preaching! I mean, really, just look at Kirstie Clements – she has all of Australia’s (and more!) designers at her disposal and what does she wear? Black suits. (I do appreciate that people in the industry have hectic schedules particularly during fashion week but c’mon! You’re meant to love fashion, show us!)

  17. If I see another girl with that hair do I will just start stamping them with labels that say ‘SAME’.

    Creativity and variation are what makes fashion something I believe in.

    A uniform may be nice if you choose it because you like it, but somehow it hardly seems as if so many people can REALLY like the same thing, but more that they a) can’t be bothered putting in the effort or b) want to fit in and/or think it’s the only way they can look good or be noticed.

    Which is really a sorry state of affairs.

  18. Awww Lady M!

    It’s this conformity to trends which makes fashion so boring at times, and unexciting. Isn’t Fashion Week where you go to spot trends? Not see what every single person next to you is wearing??

    You’re an amazing person so don’t take any notice of the intimidation. Perhaps they’re just very envious of your individuality? 😉

    x

  19. What a great post! Well put.

  20. Wow, you got this article up quickly considering you were only telling me about it last night! Great read, I remember you telling me this story at RAFW actually. Hey, I was there in all my Savers glory supporting you and your Marge Simpson beads, haha… you forgot to mention your trendy anklet!
    Interesting to know that Katiecrackernuts is in the same industry, I didn’t realise before…

  21. This, is a brilliant post. Well done Lady M.

  22. Great post, Lady! I can’t tell you how many times I see this uniform everyday at university. While it’s hard not to be intimidated, especially when I am always in Savers or hand-me-downs, I like to remember that I can feel confident without the uniform. I’m also a lot more comfortable than them too!

  23. Fantastic post! Well-written too. Love that you say it how it is.

  24. Great post!!!! I love a trend but I also reserve the privilege to interpret it the way I want. Don’t be intimidated by those of the herd who merely follow a trend, as they are lacking in the imagination that makes people interesting.

  25. Sorry darl, I was deskbound shovelling our snapper’s pics to our galleries – not my blog, the sites I work on professionally – and taking iPhone msgs from our man on the ground, who sounds nicer, but does follow the Sydney fashion code – to good effect, bless him. If I’d been there I could have sat with you in my Salvos, we don’t have Savers, gear. Strength in numbers, too true.

  26. Bravo!

    Sleekit x

  27. I so agree! I always admire those who take risks in fashion, while still understanding proportion and visual balance. I guess there will always be innovators and the immitators. Well done to you for being someone who thinks for themself, and observing this. By the way, did you have to move seats at the show for the leggy blonde?

  28. @ granthrax – a delightfully well thought out post. Much if what you say I agree with . I feel it’s pivotal to remember though that fashion is art – at least I think it is, It is open to interpretation . Some people are van Gogh’s others maybe a Dali – but at the end of the day if you look in the mirror and can sat ” damn girl u look fine” that’s is what really matters !

  29. An exceptionally well-written post that has raised a lot of questions for me personally…

    While I agree that there’s nothing worse than being just another part of the pack, I have a lot of trouble stomaching the ensmbles of people like Tavi and even (gasp, dare I say it?) Susie Bubble – because I just don’t like their “EVERYTHING MUST BE WORN AT ONCE!” aesthetic, and even less so their followers who gab on about how great they look when they would never attempt an ensemble like that themselves.

    I think that there is a lot of good that can come for a uniform. I mean, I personally have a uniform of Jeans + Blazer + Top of some description – which I not only love wearing but which generally tends to get me compliments on a day to day basis. I feel comfortable in the uniform, which is why I wear it.

    However, this does make me wonder if the reason I dislike the aestetic of Bloggers like Tavi and Susie is because they ARE so free with how they dress themselves? I personally would never attempt to mimic their style of dress because I’d feel ridiculous – I mean half the time I think Susie looks like a clown, and while I absolutely believe that she should be able to dress however the hell she wants, I do ask myself over and over again whether it’s fashion?

    Anna Piagi of Italian Vogue is another prime example of someone who, in my opinion, dresses like she actually doesn’t care what she looks like; and yet she is one of the most influential fashion editors living in the world today. Yet at her polar oposite you’ve got Grace Coddington, a brilliant and visionary fashion editor, who exists mostly in a uniform of black and white.

    I’m the first to say that my personal style needs a lot of development, and I never want that to be dictated to me so I can be seen as being successful in my chosen career path. However, at the same time, I don’t ever want to be stocking my wardrobe with mountains of clashing colours, prints and fabrics so I can create ensembles that people are going to think of as fashionable, solely because no one else in their right mind would get about in them.

    In any event, I am so thrilled that you aren’t a part of the all-black-stupid-shoe-mebership-handbag crowd, and I love that your bring us content like this that gets us thinking (and maybe even overthinking) about the world of fashion.

    Xx

  30. great post!

  31. Couldnt agree more!! Well said! x

  32. You don’t need us, but we’re right behind you. (Probably about 2 tiers back actually 😉 )

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